Images: Imaxtree
Colorful eyeshadow and punchy lip colors draw attention to our faces, but eyebrows really frame our features. In the age of Instagram, polished brows sculpted with concealer, highlighter, brow gel and a few different pencils are the ideal. But this summer, less is definitely more.
Understated, natural brows have always been an option, but undone brows have proved popular on recent runways next to louder trends like yellow eyeshadow and barrettes. Certain celebs have already bucked the overdone look in favor of showing the natural beauty of their brows. (See Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen and Taylor Hill.) And remember when boyfriend brows (undone, bushy brows with a textured finish) went viral?
There’s a reason natural brows are staging a comeback. “Eyebrows in general help define and frame the face and eye shape as well as add balance and symmetry to facial features,” says Janeena Billera, senior global makeup artist and educator at Glo Skin Beauty. “Full, natural-looking brows aid in a more youthful appearance by softening facial features altogether.”
But there’s a difference between undone and messy. Even when taking a more low-key approach, we still want our brows to look groomed. So we asked the experts how to strike the right balance to achieve gorgeous undone brows.
Undone Brows Are the Antithesis of Instagram Brows
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Start Combing
Think tamed yet natural when it comes to creating undone brows. Founder and creator of Dose of Colors Anna Petrosian proposes beginning by combing brow hairs in an upward direction using a dry spoolie brush, like the Jane Iredale Deluxe Spoolie Brush ($10). It will help tame errant hairs to give the appearance of fuller brows.
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Try Wax and Gel
A good eyebrow kit should have tweezers, brow powder, brow wax, a spoolie brush and an angled brow brush. Brow highlighter and brow scissors are bonuses. The Sephora Collection Eyebrow Editor ($19) is a great portable option. Brow gels and waxes are great for styling undone brows to avoid a messy look, according to Janeena Billera, senior global makeup artist and educator at Glo Skin Beauty. After using a spoolie brush to groom brows into submission, apply brow gel and/or wax in an upward motion. Those with coarser brows might need both products, while those with finer brows may only need gel. Petrosian suggests a clear formula, but there are tinted gels for those with sparser brows.
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Define but Don't Overdo It
Those who weren't born with naturally thick brows like Cara Delevingne may want a bit more definition in their natural arches. "Adding minimal color to accentuate a full, natural brow is a great way to further define eye shape," says Billera. "For the softest approach, it helps to use lightweight formulas." The key is to use a very light hand when filling and defining brows since the look isn't about filling in the entire brow. Instead, lightly fill in any sparse areas using soft, hair-like strokes. Billera suggests using a micro-tipped brow defining pencil like the Glo Skin Beauty Smudge-Proof Precise Micro Browliner ($20).
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Turn Up the Volume
For those with thinner brows who want greater definition, Temptu makeup artist Kyle Harder recommends using a brow color one to two shades lighter than your natural shade. Use an angled brush to draw hair-like individual strokes. "This is a nice natural way to gain fullness without looking like you used a Sharpie," she explains.
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Go Easy on Your Arches
Your brows have a natural shape so use that as a guide and don't be tempted to exaggerate. "Avoid excessively arching your brow because that becomes more character and less natural," cautions Harder. "Let’s not jump from zero to evil queen from Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs." Only fill in sparse spots to further define your natural arch. Harder recommends using a brow stencil, like the Temptu AirBrow Set ($36), or doing it freehand.
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It's About Balance
Choosing the right fullness and striking the balance between natural versus undone brows is really about personal preference, according to Harder. Some may only want to fill in sparse areas, while others want a natural shape with a fuller finish. Experiment to see what works with your face shape and features. Just remember brows are all about balance.
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Manage Regrowth
Embracing undone brows isn't an excuse to let your brows grow wild. Billera says you should base your grooming regimen on your personal regrowth cycle. This can include scheduling regular appointments with a brow technician or simply grooming your arches at home with the proper tools (tweezers, eyebrow scissors, spoolie brushes, etc.).
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But Resist the Temptation to Overpluck
The most common eyebrow mistake involves tweezing and trimming too much. It's not good for any brow look, especially natural brows. Billera says it's imperative to allow enough time for your brows to grow out completely before the shaping process begins. Excessively groomed brows are often misshapen and have gaps, leading to heavier brow product application, aka the exact opposite of effortless, natural brows.
