Designers at London Fashion Week just reminded the industry they aren’t playing games, collectively making the Fall 2018 season a showstopping display of both talent and resilience. Perhaps the most anticipated show was Burberry where Christopher Bailey took his final bow as creative director while paying homage to the LGBT community. And Delpozo unveiled yet another beautiful and fluid collection. Plus, fashion week took over some big locales with Erdem shutting down the National Portrait Gallery while Buckingham Palace opened up its doors for the star-studded Commonwealth Fashion Exchange reception.
Here are all the highs and lows of London’s Fall 2018 season, according to our unfiltered forum members. See you in Milan!
[ Next: All the Runway Hits and Misses From New York Fashion Week Fall 2018 ]
Hits & Misses: LFW
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HIT: J.W.Anderson
"It's a nice collection! Very cohesive." [john2elmejor]
"This collection has almost everything that we can ask on those horrendous times: it's clearly commercial but he's getting fun, the color palette is very nice, the clothes sometimes look a bit weird (which is right for him) and it's probably the first mixed show that works. Is he going to be successful with this offering? Of course." [helmutnotdead]
"This does seem commercial, but it is absolutely beautiful at the same time. It strikes the perfect balance for me. And the menswear was my cup of tea, as usual." [dodencebt]
See all the looks from the J.W.Anderson collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Burberry
"What a sad send-off of a great tenure. Looks like he swallowed every little trend from Gucci, Vetements, Gosha, etc. and threw up this. It doesn't even look like Burberry, or him. Godspeed Christopher..." [Marc10]
"What an awful collection. Which is ironic, during his tenure Bailey made some very classy stuff. This is very Vetements, that sort of 90s thrift store look and some of those sweatshirts literally look like those cheap sweatshirts you get at gift shops at tourist locales." [disco54]
"Good riddance." [dior_couture1245]
See all the looks from the Burberry collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Peter Pilotto
"Here is another brand who showed a lot of promise and went completely downhill for me. There is nothing I find particularly desirable; not even the lilac or mustard suits which could have had an incredible impact but fall flat due to the imperfect tailoring." [dodencebt]
"Wow, so bad I even wish I hadn't looked at it." [liberty33r1b]
See all the looks from the Peter Pilotto collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Delpozo
"So beautiful and fluid. I love how it's not as precious and more grounded than seasons past. Living for the ruffled belts." [StoneSkipper]
"He always delivers, always one of my favorites season after season." [Sensation]
"He would even be more than welcome to show in Paris instead of Proenza Schouler. This collection is very solid. I love how refined it is and obviously much lighter than his past two seasons which is a very good change. His clothes are very, very pretty but I can always see that it is a Delpozo." [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Delpozo collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Christopher Kane
"I'm finding the 'More Joy' graphic on the sweatshirt a bit ironic...considering that's what this collection really could have used. In fact, it's what the brand has been missing for the last several years. There's always clever, interesting things in a Kane collection, but the overall impact has been pretty dour for quite some time. It's a shame, since he used to be such a smart, fabulous and hilarious designer." [dior_couture1245]
"What's up with him recently? What is this? It looks like someone's generic depiction of 'fashion' based off of an online dictionary/Google Images search. He used to produce such fantastic work (2013-14 stands out in my mind for consistently beautiful collections), but now, his work feels so out of it and dated, much like the entirety of LFW which is just nothing nowadays." [Fiercification]
"As ever his constant defender I'm not really sure what to make of this collection... some really atrocious looks in there reminiscent of the cheapness of Slimane's YSL..." [HeatherAnne]
See all the looks from the Christopher Kane collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Erdem
"I am quite disappointed by this, mostly because it comes fresh off the heels of what I thought was a stellar collection last season. I don't see any particularly interesting colors nor shapes, the brown hues look drab and the embroidery is sometimes too literal and in places where I wouldn't expect to find it: case in point, those unfortunate ostrich feather sleeves on a sweater." [dodencebt]
"Pretty, but unremarkable. The polka dots in nearly every look got old fast. The fuchsia gown with red velvet roses was the standout to me, but it's a largely forgettable collection." [HeatherAnne]
See all the looks from the Erdem collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Chalayan
"Love this. Those fur pieces are wild, and those last few looks are just sublime; very feminine and sexy. Easily the best collection I've seen this season so far." [Psylocke]
"Best thing Chalayan's done in ages. Everything is so cozy and fluid and I love how the furs stick so close to the body. Truly clothes you want to live in." [StoneSkipper]
"This is so great! Perfectly balancing avant-garde and commerce. Stunning." [gazebo]
See all the looks from the Chalayan collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Halpern
"This brand bought all the tacky fabrics at 80 percent off discount from their nearest local fabric shop...and called it a collection!" [jeanclaude]
"He's been around for a couple of seasons but I can already tell he's gonna have the same fate of all these London designers who are red hot for a few years then disappear. All because they design themselves into a corner and only have one thing to say." [Marc10]
See all the looks from the Halpern collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Mulberry
"Too ambitious for a brand like Mulberry. He should be inspired by what Vevers is doing at Coach. Relatable and yet fashionable clothes with a distinct identity and versatile pieces. This is too much. We don’t need another brand like that..." [Lola701]
"The hats are very unnecessary, the collection would've stood on its own." [Marc10]
"Something is wrong... Everything looks as though it had been inflated and then popped. It's weirdly off..." [softgrey]
See all the looks from the Mulberry collection.
Image: Courtesy of Vogue Paris
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MISS: Mary Katrantzou
"I feel like she is so lost beyond saving. I think she wasn't a really strong designer to begin with so now that she tries to evolve she just doesn't seem to find a solid, stable direction for her brand." [TaylorBinque]
"I think it's a shame that I haven't liked her work in years. I was impressed with her 3-D printing skills at the beginning but wondered whether she was a one-trick pony. Turns out she is." [dodencebt]
"She's a textile designer...let's be honest. The clothes are designed to display the fabric, and that's not good." [gazebo]
See all the looks from the Mary Katrantzou collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Toga
"Toga is always wonderful and this collection is the best of this season so far. They are always brave to try some new things yet their collections are wearable." [perhydrol]
"Very under the radar but completely cool..." [softgrey]
See all the looks from the Toga collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Gareth Pugh
"This is not his strongest collection, I'm afraid. It is a bit too derivative of his own work. I prefer when he plays with lighter (the material itself, not colour-wise) fabrics as it really puts him away of his comfort zone and I'm really tired of the way he works the leather (be it matte or shiny) too." [EstefaniaAbaddon]
"Gareth is very limited by putting the same again and again on the runway, a pity, would love to see some more versatility." [Nymphaea]
"He should be doing costume design. Surely, this is costume..." [softgrey]
See all the looks from the Gareth Pugh collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Simone Rocha
"Just like every season: MEH. I can't even understand why the press is paying attention to this." [helmutnotdead]
"I can't think of any woman I know who would look good in this." [June]
"I think it's time for her to explore a bit more, try new things, evolve the label. Don't get me wrong, this is still gorgeous and I'm all for having a strong signature, but her collections are starting to look a bit too same-y and losing the impact it used to have for me." [Marc10]
See all the looks from the Simone Rocha collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Preen
"It truly looks like they just wrapped themselves in dirty laundry and went out on the runway." [lelaid]
"They used to be really good. I think they are trying way too hard and it becomes so messy and unapproachable. Some pieces are really good. I always love their prints and the way they cut the dresses. But all these unnecessary trims and add-ons are just terrible. Plus the styling is beyond saving." [TaylorBinque]
"The words f***ing hideous come to mind." [disco54]
See all the looks from the Preen collection.Image: Imaxtree
